A while back I made some reusable shopping bags and I’ve been searching for the right fabric before giving you a tutorial. These bags are spacious yet strong.
For the fabric I bought a woven heavyweight upholstery fabric. I got it from a local outlet store for $6.99 per yard!
For one bag you’ll need (2) 18″ x 21″ rectangles of fabric and (2) 4″ x 24″ rectangles of fabric.
For the optional step, you’ll need 1 rectangle measuring 4″ x 6″ and one plastic snap set. (Could substitute for velcro.)
Right sides together, sew two main fabric pieces around 3 sides, leaving 1 longer side open.
Line up right side seams with bottom seam and pin in place. Measure in 4″ and mark a line. Repeat using left side seam and bottom seam.
Because I’m working with a fabric that unravels and I’ve chosen not to do a lining, I do take the extra step to zig zag around all the seams.
I also zig zag the entire top side. Then fold 1″ onto wrong side of fabric. Use a zig zag stitch to secure around top edge.
This is what your bag should look like so far. Set it aside and we’ll put together the straps.
Iron long sides by 1/4″. Then fold strap in half and sew using a straight stitch and 1/8″ allowance. Top stitch along folded edge as well using 1/8″ allowance. *Note: I made one continuous strip & determined my handle length as I was making it.
Pin straps 5″ in from side seams and you will want to have 3″ of the strap below the top of the bag on the inside. This is going to make the bag stronger. Make sure that your straps don’t get twisted as you’re pinning them.
I used a double x pattern with a rectangle around the edges to secure.
You’re done!! This baby is ready for some serious shopping.
OR, you can continue on with the optional step. =)
I didn’t want to have to just wad my shopping bags up inside one another to store them. Sometimes I buy more that what’s on my list and sometimes I only need a few items. Either way, i like to take all my bags in case. The easiest thing I could think of was to have my bags fold for storage and I wanted to secure them that way so they couldn’t just unfold whenever they felt like it.
Using a 4″ x 6″ rectangle, follow directions for making straps. Pin & sew directly in between to of your straps already on the bag.
Measure 4 1/2″ below where you just placed our extra piece and sew on a 1″ square of scrap fabric. We just want this to reinforce the snap so we don’t end up pulling it through the woven fabric and make a hole.
Add snap (or velcro) to outside of bag where you just sewed he reinforcement square. You then want to place the partner snap on the extra strip near the handles. You will want the snap to be on the side facing the inside of the bag.
And just because it can be tricky, here’s an easy little infographic for folding the bags. =)
Feedback would be appreciated!!
Is it just me or do baby shows that claim to go from size newborn to 1 are really like 6 or more sizes apart? Even the bigger sizes don’t seem to be accurate across the board and then you’re limited to styles available. I get so tired of wasting money on shoes that are purely fashion over function so I decided it was time to come up with my own toddler boot tutorial. These cute little boots have a soft leather sole, so they’re perfect for little ones that are just learning to walk or new to walking since they can still scrunch up their toes to help with balance. I would also like to add that I’m a very relaxed sewer and I don’t usually pin or iron. =S
These boots will fit the 12-18 month age range and can easily be adapted to make smaller or larger sizes. While sewing up this pair and stopping to take some photos it took around 30 minutes start to finish for these beauties. =)
On to the toddler boot tutorial!
The great thing about these is that you have a lot of options when it comes to fabric choices. For this pair, I used a Michael Miller cotton print for the outside, a fleece solid for this warm inside, and soft white leather scraps for the sole. You’ll also need 13 inches of elastic and about 5 inches of velcro.
Sew the elastic ends onto the lining main body piece using a 1/4″ seam allowance. It should be placed approximately 2 1/2″ from the bottom.
Then you’ll want to pull the elastic tight with the fabric and use a zig zag stich to sew all the way across.
When you release the fabric it will gather.
Separate the hook and loop velcro pieces, and stitch them onto the outer fabric pieces on the end opposite of where the cut out is. You’ll want it to be 1 inch from the top and 1 inch from the side.
The velcro will go on the lining pieces on the end with the cut out. I know it can look confusing but we will be turning and topstitching and you don’t want to put it on the wrong side like I did the very first time I made these. =S
Line up the longer curve of the shoe top to the cut out in the main body piece. Stitch using 1/4″ allowance.
Repeat this step with the lining fabric.
Right sides together, sew the lining and outer fabric together along sides and top, NOT THE BOTTOMS!
Turn right side out and top stitch 1/8″ around top and sides.
I missed a photo somewhere, I hope I can describe this step well. All you have to do is line up the velcros, this will cause the ends to overlap. Sew in place from 1″ below velro to bottom. Make sure to catch elastic ends at this time as well.
Here’s where I definitely had to use some pins. Carefully pin the sole piece along the bottom
Because the leather is soft on the wrong side, we don’t need a lining piece.
Zig zag around the edges
Turn right side out & you’re done!!
Please let me know if there are parts I need to improve or clear up. I’ve never really made a tutorial before so I’m always grateful for positive feedback.